Feb 21, · Think of the heat exchanger on your boat engine as the radiator on your car: They play the same role in shedding heat away from the closed side of the system. A cutaway view of this heat exchanger shows cooling tubes, expansion tank, pressure cap, and . Designing and building a heat exchanger can be complex. Especially if it has to be compact, if it has to have a large cooling / heating capacity or if the efficiency plays a crucial role. However, in many applications neither criterium is extremely critical. This instructable will show you how to build a "classic" heat exchanger.
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Add to cart. Heat exchanger is shipped in bare metal ready for paint and primer. Replaces Marine Power I9. Fits Jet 4. Front mount. Heat exchanger used in Exchanher Power front mount cooling system on 4. Heat Exchanger for Horizontal Mount 6. Please call how to write a funny speech about yourself fitment. Vertical Mount Heat Exchanger for 6. Call for fitment. Heat Exchanger 6.
Heat exchanger used in Marine Power 6. Heat exchanger shipped bare metal ready for primer and paint. Used on Marine Power production engines. Filter by: Clear All. Price range Clear. Part Type Clear. Bracket Type Clear. Heat Exchanger Mounting. Gasket Type Clear. Liter Clear. Manufacturers Clear. Marine Power. Selected Options. Showing of results. Sign up for our newsletter.
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Step 1: What Do You Need?
Locate an overflow bottle at around the same level. Run the raw water in the opposite direction to the coolant through the exchanger. Make sure the inlets are as low on the heat exchanger as you can get them and the outlets up top. Marine Power Heat Exchanger. $1, Add to Cart. Add to Wish List Add to Compare. Marine Power Heat Exchanger. $ Add to Cart. Add to Wish List Add to Compare. F7 Marine Power Heat Exchanger. L Side Mount 4" Marine Power Heat Exchanger. $ 4" Heat Exchanger used on Marine Power FWC Engines and other Various Applications. Heat exchanger is shipped in bare metal ready for paint and primer. Replaces Marine Power I9. Quick View.
Designing and building a heat exchanger can be complex. However, in many applications neither criterium is extremely critical. This instructable will show you how to build a "classic" heat exchanger. Classic because you can find calculations and guidelines about them in almost any basic engineering book and it is darn simple to build. The materials are cheap PVC drainage pipe and it can be easily enlarged or reduced to fit your cooling or heating capacity.
I used mine to protect the inlet of a vacuum pump by condensing liquid from an air stream. The basis is a "one shell, one pass" type of exchanger.
If you require more passes, choose a large size. These are the connectors between the T-piece and the end caps. Picture 1 Glue the 2 T-pieces directly onto the PVC pipe in this stage pay attention to the configuration. From now on, the procedure will describe only one half of the heat exchanger as the other one is identical.
Glue the PVC connectors in the T-piece and thus locking the spacers in place. Picture 5 Insert the Aluminium pipe. This will nicely stay in place due to the spacers. Ensure a very tight fit as they will act as a sealing plug. Drill holes in the end caps.
Picture 2 Fit the rubber plug over the Aluminium pipe and push it hard! Apply glue to the end section of the PVC connector and apply a large blob of glue to the wall of the Aluminium pipe. Slide the cap, whilst rotating, over the connector. Once it is dry, you can start with the water connection. Picture 3 Install the water pipe, install the plug, and glue in the similar way as described here above.
Rig up the hoses, test for water leaks and go!! Best is to operate the heat exchanger in a counterflow mode bottom to top. That's a good idea, you got there.
It's very much like the ones I built one time when I broke my foot where I worked. They didn't believe in lost time injuries. So I was stuck in the shop making a lot of these things but, ours were all copper. As they were used to push steam heated oil into a blast furnance to keep the iron pool hot. The things worked like a charm. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. That depends on a lot of factors: temperature difference, flow rate, direction of flow, type of fluid I haven't measure it but since it is a classical heat exchanger, you should be able to find on line calculators to predict the cooling rate under certain conditions.
Many thanks, bertus52x11, for inspiring me to build one of these contraptions. You can see it on my home chemistry instructable on step 7. I will post my distilling apparatus instructable at some point and will give you all the credit for the heat exchange tube. Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. If your distilling anything to be consumed, aluminium would not be wise. Sorry if you already know this but I thought I'd say just in case.
Yes, it's always good to emphasize that aluminium, high temperatures and food do not go together. Reply 10 years ago on Introduction. In short: it leaves with the water. It's a heat exchanger, so it exchanges heat from one medium to another.
In this case, hot air enters in the right handside of the exchanger and flows through the Aluminium tube to the left handside exit. Meanwhile cold water flows through the copper tube into the PVC chamber from below to the top. Heat is transferred from the hot air stream through the Aluminium pipe to the water stream.
The air is cooled, the water is heated. So heat goes in through the air, transfers to the water. Air going out is cool and the water going out is hot. No need for reply. Introduction: Classic Heat Exchanger. More by the author:. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Reply Upvote. Pyrophoric 9 years ago on Introduction. BackyardModder Pyrophoric Reply 9 years ago on Introduction.
Pyrophoric BackyardModder Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. I wouldn't dare eat anything I manage to cook up in the kitchen, much less in the lab! He, that's nice to hear! If you post it, maek sure to remind me and I'll send you a patch. That depends Some might find it expensive.
You can build it for less than 10 euro.