how to pour monolithic slab foundation

Monolithic concrete slabs are entire slab sections made in one pouring of concrete. Creating a form for a monolithic slab can be done easily with a few commonly found building materials, which you can buy at your local building supply store. Once set, concrete should be considered permanent, as breaking and removal is very laborious. The cost of a monolithic concrete slab is $5 per square foot, resulting in an average total cost of $4, to $20, There are two beam types of monolithic slab foundations – one-way beam, and two-way beam. A one-way beam supports the foundation on two .

Learn about the benefits of a monolithic slab over a traditional concrete foundation, and see how I implemented this in my energy-efficient home. It has been a while since you heard from me. Turns out building a house takes a lot of time and energy. That said, I promised to take you along my energy-efficient home-building journey, so sharing about my foundation seems like a good place to start.

Well my slab detail is no exception. A monolithic slab is a concrete foundation that is completed in one pour. Traditional foundations, often referred to as stem-wall, typically take 3 pours — the footing, foundation walls and then slab. Monolithic slabs combine those all into one piece, and act as part of the structure of the house. For those nerdy building science guys and gals like mehere is a detailed diagram of my foundation:. If you know anything about my new home build, you know that energy efficiency is at the core of every decision I make.

The monolithic design allowed me to put 2 layers of 1. I plan on utilizing the slab as a thermal mass to hold heat on sunshiny days, so having that insulation is important.

I was also able to maintain a continuous air barrier from the slab to the exterior walls. Of course! I also saved money by not having to buy block, only having to pay for one concrete pour, and significantly reducing labor costs. We got the entire foundation prepped, poured and cut within a week.

For the simple excavation process, my brother brought over his handy garden tractor and did all of the ground prep work in 2 days. Only having fashion bomb daily what to wear concrete pour, rather than 3, also saved us a significant amount of time. Anyone who has ever built a house knows that time is money.

Every minute we saved in the foundation process was a minute earlier that we could start framing. When the building inspector looked at my slab, he admitted he had never seen anything like it.

They are not common — especially in colder climates. Gotta love Ohio winters! Here are some of the reasons that people shy away from monolithic slabs:. Here is the basic breakdown of the steps:. As I mentioned above, we were able to complete the entire home excavation with a small garden tractor.

We first stripped the existing topsoil. To protect from frost heave, and to add energy-efficiency, I put down 2 layers of 1. I staggered the direction of the foam tiles to prevent seams from aligning between the two layers. The entire slab has 2 layers of XPS, except for the 16 inches inside of the perimeter. This 16 inch space was used to build up concrete thickness for my grade beam. I made forms out of XPS foam around the perimeter to stop the gravel from sliding how to get a teaching job in hawaii the perimeter.

More foam insulation! I added 2 layers of 1. This eventually got covered up with dirt. This board will protect the foam. I added a 6 mil plastic continuous vapor barrier. Concrete is porous, so this barrier will keep moisture from getting into the concrete from the ground. In many instances, people will use multiple pieces of vapor barrier and tape it together.

I was fortunate to be able to get one continuous sheet to ensure even better protection. As a bomber foundation detail, we wet set the saddles for my structural columns before the concrete dried.

This provides a very strong foundation-to-wall connection, offering exceptional shear strength. Finally, I how to do a proper handshake 1 layer of 1. It helps retain heat to prevent freeze heave. I always like to give a shoutout when I come across great products and trustworthy local companies.

Check out my material and subcontractor details below. Do your research, check out your local building codes and then be confident in your decision. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Menu Blog About Partner Contact. What is a Monolithic Slab? For those nerdy building science guys and gals like mehere is a detailed diagram of my foundation: Why Choose a Monolithic Slab?

My Monolithic Slab is Well-Insulated and Helps with Energy Efficiency If you know anything about my new home build, you know that energy efficiency is at the core of every decision I make. Monolithic Slabs Are Quick to Implement We got the entire foundation prepped, poured and cut within a week. Are There Downfalls to Monolithic Slabs? Here are some of the reasons that people shy away from monolithic slabs: If your ground is not even, a monolithic slab is not a great option.

Too much concrete is required to compensate for the slope of the ground. Freeze heave occurs when ice forms underneath the soil. The freezing and thawing of the ground can cause cracks and what is the three stooges about issues in your foundation. This is how typical stem-wall foundations are constructed. People like to do things the traditional way. A stem-wall foundation is far more common than monolithic.

Here is the basic breakdown of the steps: Step 1: Excavation As I mentioned above, we were able to complete the entire home excavation with a small garden tractor. Step 2: Foam Insulation To protect from frost heave, and to add energy-efficiency, I put down 2 layers of 1. Step 4: Perimeter Insulation More foam insulation! Step 5: Vapor Barrier I added a 6 mil plastic continuous vapor barrier.

Step 8: Structural Saddles As a bomber foundation detail, we wet set the saddles for my structural columns before the concrete dried. Partners and Products I always like to give a shoutout when I come across great products and trustworthy local companies. It was pulled off of an old commercial building in Georgia, and I saved it from going to a landfill. It also saved me thousands of dollars from buying new! Recycled is always the way to go, when you can! Considering a Monolithic Slab?

Have questions? Found this article helpful? Leave me a comment! Build on! Sign up for blog posts delivered straight to your inbox.

PROS OF MONOLITHIC FOUNDATION

Apr 21,  · We are building a Post and Beam heavy Timber framed wedding barn event space on a MONOLITHIC SLAB FOUNDATION. Although the barn will not be enclosed and heat. Monolithic foundations (MF) Monolithic means “all in one pour”. This means that the footings and the floor are all poured in one shot. How deep. A monolithic foundation is only 12 inches deep. This is measured from the bottom of the hole to the top of the floor. Where you can use them. These types of foundations can be used anywhere in the US. That’s where monolithic slab foundations come in. Monolithic slabs combine the foundation footings and slab into one piece, allowing them to both be poured at the same time and cut back your time and monetary investment. THE MONOLITHIC SLAB CONSTRUCTION PROCESS.

This means that the footings and the floor are all poured in one shot. A monolithic foundation is only 12 inches deep. This is measured from the bottom of the hole to the top of the floor. These types of foundations can be used anywhere in the US. However, if your house has a frost wall foundation, meaning the bottom of the footing is below the frost line, 48 inches, then you cannot connect this to your existing foundation.

The reason for this is simple while your house foundation will not move up and down with the frost, your monolithic foundation will. The fact that your floor moves is just fine.

Think of a sidewalk that is only a few inches think. They move all the time. For the most part, you will need a level spot to place your MF.

Would you believe you can dig this foundation by hand with shovels? The total thickness is only 12 inches with only half of that in the ground. Otherwise you will have to dig more in a few spots to keep it level. There are a few ways you can go about this.

The real important part here is to make sure that you make them real strong. Concrete is very heavy and the last thing you want is a blowout! This can be very easy or very hard. So what I do when I can is to have the dump truck dump it right in the foundation. Unless you have a front loader on the job. However, in order to do this, I only dig out three of the sides first, then have the dump truck drive right in. This is a trick. But always think of the driveway and the ramp to the garage floor.

You may want to get extra for that. JUST the floor, not the whole foundation. This like a strong and always rusty fence. Rebar is just metal bars. And very easy to bend manually. These will need to be placed in the footings a joining each other in the corners. Just bend them around in the corners so they overlap each other and tie them together with some wire. Make sure you hold them up so they will end up in the middle of the concrete pour.

The first time is really not as easy as it may appear. You have to race against time. Concrete will set up in an hour or so. The last thing you want to do is to start using your muscles too early in the pour. Let the concrete truck driver do the work with his truck. The driver will know what to do. You will want the driver to start pouring at the farthest point. I like to start to pour all the footings first with a drier, harder mix first.

Bring this up to the wire mesh. Then go back and do the floor as soon as the concrete is in the footings. This way helps you to make sure the forms stay good and strong. If you look at the above picture, you will notice a big long piece of aluminum. This is my screed. With one man on each end sliding it back and forth on top of the forms will push and pull the concrete and will make it level. This will help with pushing the rocks down a bit.

Now you can go to town with a few friends using either a big gas powered power trowel or just use hand trowels pushing down hard to bring the cream up and make it nice and smooth. If you work real hard you can make it look like glass. A Cracked Foundation No, all cracks are something of concern. However, many are. So how do we know if they are or not? The answer…. Oil stained concrete Now, who would've thought that using kitty litter would work so well?

Did you know that the cheapest kitty litter you can…. Here's the difference. Concrete has stones in it and is used for thick…. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me via e-mail if anyone answers my comment. How deep A monolithic foundation is only 12 inches deep. Where you can use them These types of foundations can be used anywhere in the US. Level Ground For the most part, you will need a level spot to place your MF.

Digging the ground Would you believe you can dig this foundation by hand with shovels? Making the forms There are a few ways you can go about this. Additionally, if your one wall is 20 feet long, you should make that form 20 feet long.

Placing the stone This can be very easy or very hard. How much stone do you need? Related Videos And Articles. Cleaning a oil stained concrete floor Oil stained concrete Now, who would've thought that using kitty litter would work so well? What is concrete what is Concrete The first thing to know is, what is concrete?

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5 thoughts on “How to pour monolithic slab foundation

  • Mogami
    23.05.2021 in 00:11

    Thanks Paul and all the best to you too.

  • Gora
    23.05.2021 in 02:08

    Nice sir mind belowing fully work

  • Teramar
    24.05.2021 in 17:23

    Your right. I never remember it being like this.

  • JoJojar
    25.05.2021 in 00:56

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  • Kataur
    26.05.2021 in 11:53

    This video can hlp our lives and lives of others, this is so important for the people of our world

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